Chapter 11 - Roses Without A Garden

There are doubtless many who through circumstances or from choice are without a garden and yet would like to be able to grow a few roses. Where there is access to an open space such as a roof or balcony, growing roses is quite within the bounds of possibility. Obviously, such a project will entail growing the plants in boxes, tubs, pots, etc., but there is no reason, provided certain cultural rules are observed, why a fair amount of success should not be obtained.

As such places are most likely to be in the most populous areas where the atmosphere is not of the purest, a severe limitation will be imposed on types of roses that can be grown successfully. Those that at once come to mind are the Dwarf Polyanthas and Floribundas. These are not nearly as fussy in their requirements as most of the Hybrid Teas, and moreover will give, on the average, more bloom over a given period. A rose such as Frensham, for instance, should be almost ideal for the purpose, as it has the necessary vigour to offset uncongenial conditions. Others that would give satisfaction are Sarabande, Circus, Allgold, Poulsen's Pink, Dainty Maid and Dusky Maiden. Among the Dwarf Polyanthas, Coral Cluster, Edith Cavell, Gloria Mundi and Cameo could be relied upon to give a good display for the minimum ot trouble.

Provided space is available, some of the Rambler roses could be grown with good effect. Paul's Scarlet would be a good choice here, for although it only blooms once, the flowers are very lasting on the plant, retaining their brilliant colour until the petals fall. Others from which a selection could be made are Lady Godiva, Excelsa, Crimson Shower, American Pillar, New Dawn and Sander's White.

The problem of the receptacle in which the plants are to be grown now arises. Large pots would be the best if obtainable, but such things are very expensive to purchase and something else that will serve the purpose may have to be pressed into service. Small barrels sawn into halves would be excellent, and failing these, square tubs constructed from one-inch-thick boards could easily be made by any handyman. The best size would be about a foot square and deep, with the corners bound with iron. A few holes must be made at the bottom to allow surplus water to drain away and the whole should be treated with a copper napthenate preservative. Do not, on any account, use creosote for this purpose, for it would be fatal to the plants.

The roses should be the best obtainable, for to begin with weak plants is to court failure. Procure a quantity of John Innes Compost No. 4 from the nearest nurseryman, or, if there is not one near at hand, it can be obtained from advertisers in the gardening press. A supply of broken crocks will be necessary also, since free drainage is of the greatest importance. A layer of about an inch at the bottom of the tub will be sufficient. After placing the crocks in position two or three handfuls of coarse peat scattered over them will prevent the finer soil from choking the drainage. The tub should be about half-filled with soil, and firmed with a piece of broomstick. The rose should then be placed in position to see if any more soil is required, before covering the roots. The point where the scion meets the stock should be on the level of the soil, which should not be higher than an inch from the top of the tub. Having been satisfied that the depth is correct, spread the roots out and add the soil, firming it while doing so until sufficient has been added.

After-treatment consists in pruning the roses in early March, but not as hard as would be necessary in the case of those grown in the normal manner.

If the work is carried out in the autumn, there will be no necessity to water the plants since there will be more than sufficient rain during the winter, but if the roses are planted in spring then they should have a good soaking.

There should be no need for further watering until the plants have made good growth, and it is far better to keep them on the dry side than to add water when it is not required. In fact, any failures that may occur will in all probability be due to over watering. Where the plants are grown in large clay pots it is an easy matter to determine whether water is required, by tapping the pots. If the soil is dry the pots will ring, showing that the soil has contracted away from the sides of the pot; if, on the other hand, there is already ample moisture, the sound will be dull. With tubs this method of ascertaining the state of the moisture content will not apply and the soil will have to be examined by means of a small fork.

Spraying the plants with clear water on warm evenings will keep the foliage clean and help the growth considerably. If pests are troublesome they should be dealt with as recommended in Chapter XIII.

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