Chapter 8 - Roses From Seed

To very many, the idea of growing roses from seed is rather surprising. I suppose it is owing to the fact that, since nearly all woody plants are propagated by means of grafting, budding, layering or cuttings, growing from seed is seldom thought of. The growing of roses from seed is done purely with the intention of raising new varieties.

There is nothing very difficult in growing roses from seed, nor is it a long process; in fact, it would surprise many people to know that a rose can be brought into bloom from seed in less time than some annual flowers. With seed sown in the greenhouse in February some will be in bloom by the end of May or early June. Of course, there will not be a plant anything like one sees in the garden as regards size, for all we shall have is a tiny plant about six inches high, with one stem about as thick as a matchstick, four leaves and a small flower on the top. Such is a rose on its entry into the world.

As I said before, the raising of new roses is not difficult. Every one that is raised will be unlike the parent which provided the seed. Difficulties arise, however, when an attempt is made to raise roses which are an improvement on existing varieties. If seed is gathered from plants in the garden by collecting the heps in the autumn, new roses can be raised from them, but it is very unlikely that one would be raised which is an improvement on the parent. The reason for this is that roses are bisexual, that is they have the male and female organs combined in the same flower, as distinct from unisexual plants such as the melon and marrow, which have the male and female organs in different flowers. Many of the bisexual plants are capable of being fertilized by their own pollen without the agency of bees and other insects, and, since the pollen of roses is ripe before the petals have expanded, there is so little chance of cross-fertilization that one cannot hope to effect an improvement on the plant that is selected from seed. For instance, if the seed of Madame Butterfly was gathered from a plant growing in the garden and sown, the seedlings would have certain of the characteristics of that variety in leaf and habit, but all the flowers would be pale and uninteresting, and not nearly as good as the parent flower. If, on the other hand, roses were pollinated by bees visiting the flowers, it would be quite possible, with luck, to raise roses of great worth.

It must be realized that modern roses are a long way removed from their wild ancestry, and, in the Damask rose for instance, there is no record of it ever having a wild parent with single blooms, as have all wild roses. It is the fact that our modern roses have such a long and mixed ancestry that makes the hybridization of them such an uncertain procedure. For instance, if one should make a cross of two pure species of wild roses the result would be the same each time with slight variations. When we come to the present-day roses it is only when we know that certain of them come from a long line of a particular color that we can be reasonably sure of perpetuating that color.

We know that the parentage of many red roses goes back in a direct line to the old Hybrid Perpetual, General Jacqueminot, and so, if red roses are crossed, the progeny will also be reds of various shades, some light carmine and others of a very deep crimson. When I raised Ena Harkness it came in a batch of eighty seedlings all from the one cross of Crimson Glory and Southport, and, except for William Harvey which came from a seed with two kernels and produced identical twins, no two roses were alike. About fifty per cent were scentless, which is what one might expect when an unscented variety like Southport is used. One might be inclL.*d to remark, why use an unscented rose for a parent if some of the progeny are sure to be without scent. The reason is this: Southport, in spite of being scentless, has a very brilliant colour which it keeps until the petals fall, a character which it is very desirable to perpetuate. One other important thing is that Southport produces seed quite readily which germinates quite well when sown. Crimson Glory, on the other hand, has the great fault that the blooms fade to a very unpleasant color, especially in wet weather. On the credit side it has a very vigorous habit which Southport lacks.

From this it is fairly easy to see the whole purpose of systematic cross-fertilization: to get a variety with the non-fading color in the bloom of Southport, and with the vigor and scent of Crimson Glory. At one time it was believed that the seed parent gave the vigor of the plant and the male or pollen parent the color, and that was the principle that hybridists worked on, but it is no longer thought to be true. On one occasion, being without the necessary pollen of Mrs. Sam McGredy, I used the pollen of the climbing form of that variety and the result was a number of seedlings with the climbing habit.

On the whole it is good practice to use a seed-bearing variety with a good sound constitution. Unfortunately, although some of the best characters are transmitted to the offspring, so are the bad ones, only more so, and it is only when the plant has grown for a year or two that its faults are manifest. If the only faults one need expect were those inherent in the two varieties being crossed, the chances of raising perfect roses would be greatly increased, but there are always the imperfections of previous generations which will keep cropping up time after time. A defect that one is liable to get more than anything else is lack of petals. This can be seen by the large number of highly colored roses which are to be found in the rose growers' catalogues. In the majority of instances, bright color and heavy petal age do not coincide. One has only to look at some of our large, full roses—Mrs Charles Lamplough, President Charles Hain, Rex Anderson, Directeur Guerin, Sir Henry Segrave, Oswald Seiper and many more, all pale roses. For many years I have crossed McGredy's Yellow with Phyllis Gold in the hope of getting a yellow with more petals; the result has been large full roses of an off-white color or medium-sized yellow ones with few petals. This is one of the inherited characteristics of Julien Potin coming out in the seedlings. All those who have grown Julien Potin must have observed that the large blooms have very little of the glorious yellow which is present in the smaller blooms. Phyllis Gold, which was the result of a Julien Potin cross, has almost the same characteristics, only the smaller and few-petalled blooms having the deep yellow colour. The difficulty is that all our yellow roses are direct descendants of the Austrian briar, which was responsible for introducing this colour in our roses; so until someone obtains a yellow rose from another parent we shall not get the yellow rose that is needed.

The point arises whether too many new varieties are introduced each year. Without a doubt there are very many more roses than an ordinary garden can ever accommodate at the present time, and yet still the lists get longer. My own view is that it is all to the good; for one thing it does widen one's choice, and provided that the new variety has received an award at the National Rose Society's Trial Ground it is quite likely that it will displace an inferior rose.

There is another reason why it is necessary to renew the older roses from time to time. Hybrids as a rule do not have a long life; for example, the Hybrid Perpetual roses began to lose their value after about fifty or sixty years. That is to say, their capacity for producing perfect blooms was on the wane after that lapse of time. In this particular instance it is certain that even if the roses had not deteriorated they would have been replaced by the introduction of the Hybrid Teas. It would seem that age affects some roses much more than others. For example, the Ramblers as a class are just as good in every way as they were when first introduced. On the other hand, some of the Hybrid Teas, and by no means the oldest, have shown a marked deterioration in the last few years.

Another reason for the raising of new roses is to get new types. There is great scope for this, for there are a large number of wild species which have hardly been used for producing new types. In Germany, Wilhelm Kordes is using many new species of rose as parents in order to obtain greater hardiness in roses. Already the results of his endeavors can be seen at the Rose Trial Ground at St. Albans.

Since the war a large number of Floribundas have been introduced, mainly by Continental raisers, many of shades never before seen in roses. While the blooms of a rose are very important, vigor in the plant is perhaps even more so. Raisers are conscious of this fact, and varieties which grow well are more numerous than they were a few years ago.

The raising of roses from seed is essentially an amateur's occupation; few commercial growers of roses can afford the expense of employing a man solely for the purpose of hybridizing, with such an uncertain return. For an amateur, with a small greenhouse, who will be able to do the actual crossing during the brightest part of the day, or depute someone to do it for him, it is one of the most interesting, and sometimes exciting occupations. An unheated greenhouse is quite suitable for the purpose, and it need not interfere with other growing plants.

First the plants must be selected that are to act as seed parents. It is possible to get a very good idea of the varieties which form seed pods in the garden. Some good seed bearers are to be found in

Crimson Glory, Ena Harkness, Phyllis Gold, McGredy's Yellow, Madame Butterfly, Mrs Henry Bowles, Spek's Yellow and Mrs. Sam McCredy. In the Floribunda roses there are Donald Prior, Dainty Maid, Pinnochio, Else Poulsen, Dusky Maiden, Karen Poulsen and Poulsen's Pink. Pollen parents can be selected from the same plants, for, in doing so, full use will be made of all the varieties.

In growing the plants in the greenhouse there is a choice of two methods. The plants can be potted up in the autumn and brought into the greenhouse in February or March, or they can be planted out in the soil if the greenhouse is suitable. There is one advantage in the latter method; it solves the watering problem, since the bushes, once planted, are able to look after themselves. The soil in either instance should not be too rich, in fact, if it is so the plants may grow too well at the expense of forming seed. All that is required is moderate growth, so it is unnecessary to use strong plants for planting or potting. Those that nurserymen call 'seconds' are best suited for the purpose. There should be no hurrying to get the plants into bloom, and if this can be delayed until the end of May, so much the better. Bright sunny weather is required at the time the cross is made, and as long as there is sufficient time for the pods to ripen, any time up to the middle of June will do to carry out the work.

Preparing the blooms for cross-pollination

The method of preparation of the blooms for crossing does not present any difficulties. The bloom selected to act as a seed parent should be in the loose bud stage, and in that state the petals can be removed with the fingers quite easily. The important thing is to do this before the stamens begin to distribute their pollen. Having removed all the petals, it will be seen how the stamens surround the female organs in the centre. The removal of these stamens should now be carried out. This can be done with a pair of pointed tweezers, but if it is desired to use the variety for pollinating another variety they should be placed in a small glass dish as they are taken off (the lids of fruit preserving jars are excellent for the purpose) and put on a card bearing the name of the rose from which they were taken. Having removed every one of the stamens, the rose should be left until the next day, when it will be ready to receive the pollen of a rose previously selected. The stamens which were taken off and placed in the dish will, in a few hours, have dried and dropped their pollen. This can then be applied with either a tiny camel-hair brush, or with the forefinger, previously rubbed in the dish. In the time that has elapsed since the petals were removed it will be found that the stigmas have formed a sticky secretion for the express purpose of holding any pollen grains that happen to fall on them.

Diagrammatic representation of a section through a rose showing the various organs of reproduction.

When applying the pollen, care must be taken not to injure the delicate stigmas; that is why a brush is preferable to the finger when applying the pollen. There is no need to apply much pollen, for as long as one grain falls on each stigma it is sufficient for complete fertilization. After the crossing has been made a label bearing the names of both parents should be tied to the stem.

There is no need to use any covering in the greenhouse provided no roses are allowed to bloom and cast their pollen in the air. There should be ample ventilation, for a damp atmosphere is not conducive to the formation of seed. Neither should the plants be sprayed or the pots over watered.

In a few weeks the seed pods will have swollen to full size, and by the autumn will have changed to an orange-red. When this has happened they should be cut off the plants and placed in damp sand. Pots or pans are suitable, but every precaution should be taken to protect the seed pods from mice, which are extremely fond of the seeds. The labels will have to be changed, and metal or wooden ones substituted. The pods should then be recorded in a book under a number and its cross, so that only the number will be necessary on the new label. This is better than giving a number when the actual cross was made, for it is quite common for the plants to fail to form pods. The sand should be moistened occasionally and not be allowed to get dry.

Sowing the seeds

About the end of February the seeds may be taken from the pods and sown. Many of the pods will have turned black and soft, while others will have retained their bright colour. This is of no importance and is a usual occurrence. The seed can be sown in either boxes or pots, depending on the number of seeds to be sown. The John Innes compost No. 1 is the best to use for the sowing of the seeds, but care should be taken to see that the pots or boxes are quite clean. Boxes, if they are new, are quite safe, but with pots it would be as well to sterilize by boiling, since seedling roses are very susceptible to the damping-off disease. The compost should be obtained from a reliable source and only sufficient for immediate use should be purchased so that there is no danger of it being re-infected through being stored in a dirty place.

The seeds should be sown about half an inch deep and about an inch apart, and well watered. Although heat is unnecessary in the raising of the seedlings it does hasten the germination if a little is provided, sufficient to keep frost out. Under such conditions the first seedlings should appear in five weeks, and should continue to come through until the end of May. There will then be a lull until the autumn, when perhaps a few more will put in an appearance. These latecomers are not of much use as a rule, since they so often die during the winter.

As the seedlings come through the soil, it is as well to pot them up singly at once, in 2-inch pots, especially if it is intended to grow the young plants on in the open garden, for they can then be planted out at any time without disturbance. My own practice is to bud the tiny seedlings as soon as they have produced their first bloom. By this method one is saved the trouble of keeping a lot of worthless ones, of which there is sure to be a number.

Budding the seedlings

A beginner is apt to be nervous of budding with such minute material, so, if the seedlings are potted and grown on, the budding can be put off until stronger growth is made. Stocks for budding the seedlings should be planted in the autumn. The rugosa is the one I have always favored. Un-rooted cuttings about a quarter of an inch thick are best, for it is a disadvantage to have the stocks too strong.

In cutting the buds out of the thin growths of the seedling plant, the beginning of the cut should be below the bud and not above as described previously. The reason for this is that the wood is not extracted, but put into the stock as it is cut out. As a rule seedlings take very easily, and it is quite likely that some will start into growth soon after budding and give a bloom. When it is certain that the budding has been successful the original seedling plants may be discarded.

Even if one does not possess a greenhouse for growing the plants intended for seed, there is a certain amount of work that can be done in the open garden. If we had summer weather like that of 1947 or 1959 every year, a greenhouse could be dispensed with, except for raising the seedlings, for which it has a great advantage over a cold frame. Even in the most dismal summer quite a number of roses can be relied upon to ripen seed pods. The Floribunda roses and Ramblers regularly ripen their pods, as do some of the Hybrid Musks. Roses grown on walls can also be pressed into service.

Plants that are to be used for the purpose of providing seed pods should be pruned very lightly, for they will then bloom earlier than plants pruned for obtaining better blooms. Moreover, they are more likely to provide the kind of bloom that is required, of medium size. One great advantage of hybridizing in the open is the great scope it provides in choice crosses. In the greenhouse one is limited to the blooms that happen to be out at the particular time, and so often the particular cross one wishes to make cannot be carried out because the blooming of the two roses does not coincide.

In crossing roses in the open, all the blooms operated upon will have to be protected against insects or other agencies conveying other pollen. Cellophane rolled up in the form of a dunce's cap and stuck down with liquid glue answers the purpose admirably. There is no need to tie them underneath when they are placed over the emasculated bloom, as the sepals act as a grip and it is seldom they are blown off, so it is not advisable to remove the caps even though the pods show signs of swelling. The roses that have their blooms in trusses need something larger than the little caps used for blooms that come singly, and it will be necessary to tie these covers underneath the blooms.

It is quite possible that cloches will be found useful in getting roses of the Hybrid Tea type to bloom earlier and so ensure the seed pods ripening. In that case the plants would have to be planted in the autumn and pruned hard to keep them dwarf. The cloches should not be put over the plants until the end of March, for any hastening may make them produce blind, growth, and the advantage would then be lost.

In emasculating (the removal of the stamens) roses with single-petalled blooms, one must do it rather sooner than with double ones, as the pollen in this type of rose develops very quickly and is often ripe even before the petals have expanded. A keen sight or a magnifying glass will be necessary when operating on small blooms, for it is quite easy to overlook one tiny stamen which will render the cross abortive.

Rambler roses from seed

Ramblers, as a class, have been passed over by the hybridists since Messrs Chaplin gave us Chaplin's Pink, Crimson Conquest and one or two others which are not grown to any extent. Here is a fertile field for the amateur with the time and patience, and I should advise any that are interested to procure a plant of wild Wichuraiana or Memorial Rose for the purpose of trying their hand at raising new Ramblers. The wild species sets seed very easily, and crosses with any of the Hybrid Teas may give some interesting results and should be well worth trying.

Unlike the seedlings of perpetual varieties, Ramblers do not bloom the first year and, in consequence, it is not until the next year that it is possible to observe the value of the crosses made. It is unnecessary to bud the Rambler seedlings on to stocks as they are quite vigorous and soon grow into large plants. American Pillar is another rose that could be used as a parent, for, crossed with Paul's Scarlet, it gave that ever-popular rose Chaplin's Pink.

The principal reason why the Ramblers have been neglected by the professional raisers is the fact that they do not pay to raise. The seedlings take up a lot of room and require a considerable amount of labour, which their sales do not justify. Since the last of the new Ramblers was offered to the rose-growing public there have been a great many new varieties, especially among the Floribunda roses, which could be used for crossing, a fact that should not be overlooked by those sufficiently interested.

There is one very important point to remember when making a choice of a pollen parent, that is to avoid carefully those varieties subject to mildew, for this is almost certain to be transmitted to the seedling and so render it worthless. Mildew is a disfigurement to any rose, but to a Rambler most of all.

Naturally the beginner will bud as many of his or her roses as he can find stocks for, but with experience a more careful selection will be made. It is not possible to be certain that a seedling blooming for the first time will be any improvement on existing varieties. All that can be ascertained are its color, scent, form of the flower and number of petals, although there may

 be a slight increase in the latter in a full-sized plant. Its habit of growth, vigor and disease-resisting properties are unknown. At best, all that can be done is to select those of promise, and hope that the promise will be

fulfilled. The following year will see the seedlings growing as normal maiden plants on stocks and then it will be possible to appraise their value. The first blooms may be coarse and mis-shapen, but as the blooming period lengthens, a fairly good idea can be obtained whether they are worth keeping or not. Among the plants will perhaps be some which, because of certain good qualities, will be worth using as seed bearers, using the pollen parent for the second time. This is a practice that should always be followed when possible, if one is crossing for a definite end. It should, of course, be ascertained whether the plant is likely to set seed from its own pollen by leaving the faded blooms on the plant.

In the raising of roses one must be prepared for many disappointments and, I might add, be gifted with a lot of luck. Many have spent years raising seedlings and never once produced a rose that ever graced a rose grower's catalogue. Undoubtedly the greater the number of crosses made, and seedlings raised, the greater the possibility of getting roses that everyone will want to grow in their gardens, and while the element of luck is present, there is always the chance that something good will turn up, for it must be borne in mind that the perfect rose has yet to be raised.

In the event of a desirable seedling being raised, a bloom should be shown to a rose grower of repute who will advise as to the desirability of putting on the market. Do not be disappointed if the grower rejects it as mediocre; as a man of business he cannot afford the time and expense of working up a stock of a rose unless there is likely to be a ready response from the public. As a rule the grower will take a few budding eyes if he thinks the rose has possibilities, and will give his opinion of its worth when he has seen it growing in his own nursery. Should he consider the rose worth sending out as a new variety, an agreement satisfactory to both parties should be drawn up, preferably by a solicitor, and signed by both parties. The grower will then begin to work up a stock and most probably send plants to the National Rose Society's Trial Ground at St. Albans. After being grown there for two seasons it will be judged by a panel consisting of amateurs and rose nurserymen. Should the rose get a Trial Ground Certificate, there is a possibility of it being awarded a Gold Medal if and when the blooms are shown at any of the National Rose Society's shows. If, on the other hand, no award is made at the Trial Ground the rose cannot receive an award at the shows of the N.R.S. No rose that has not received an award at the Trial Ground can ever hope to become a popular rose. That is as it should be, and is the whole purpose of roses undergoing these trials, namely to keep inferior varieties from being offered to the public.

It is to be hoped that no words of mine will have discouraged anyone from taking up rose hybridizing, which is one of the most fascinating of all gardening pursuits, and even if a real winner is never obtained, there may be many that will give a lot of pleasure when grown in the raiser's garden, as roses of his own creation.

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